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Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber, by Steve Roper
Ebook Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber, by Steve Roper
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Review
It's a rousing read. (Royal Robbins)... captures the real spirit of the Golden Age of American rock climbing. (Yvon Chouinard)Informed, insightful, masterful. (Climbing magazine)
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From the Back Cover
In the 1960s, California's Yosemite Valley was the center of the rockclimbing universe. It was the perfect place for young nonconformists to drop out, hang loose, and channel their energy into climbing the valley's largely untouched walls and cracks. Many of these "misfits" were the finest rock climbers in the world. Some even shaped the future of the sport. And by the end of the decade, climbers from around the globe were coming to Camp 4 - gathering spot for the creators of the "Golden Age" of Yosemite climbing - to see what all the fuss was about. Climber and author Steve Roper spent most of ten years living in Yosemite Valley with its intriguing inhabitants. Camp 4 is his take on the era's top climbers and the (sometimes whimsical) influences behind their achievements.
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Product details
Paperback: 255 pages
Publisher: Mountaineers Books; 1 edition (November 30, 1998)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0898865875
ISBN-13: 978-0898865875
Product Dimensions:
6 x 0.6 x 8.9 inches
Shipping Weight: 15.2 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.7 out of 5 stars
26 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#263,527 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
I was embarrassed to realize that I had not reviewed and recommended this book before, for it is probably the most distinguished account of a genuine Golden Age which I have ever read.It is statistically intriguing how many of that crowd seemed to have a native, unschooled gift for writing well. I recommend reading a collection of articles from "Ascent" entitled "Ordeal by Piton", edited by Roper. I think you will be impressed by the caliber of the essays.Many of the reviewers have picked up on the feeling that climbing attracts a certain type. The author of "Chomolungma Sings the Blues" encountered a psychoanalyst who was making a study of the climbing fraternity and I suspect there is a body of literature on this fascinating subject.Many reviewers have mentioned the intense nostalgia this book evoked. I was often in Yosemite in the late sixties, not climbing but on the trail with a Kelty on my back. To be reminded of California days when I could be alone, say, in a walk-in campground---on Pt. Reyes---on a weekend---fills me with anguish. A vanished era.
Wow! Steve did an excellent job of portraying the 'climbing scene,' as well as accurately describing the many colorful characters of the era.I spent some time in Camp 4 during the summer of 1965 and met many of these wonderful characters. But...as an earlier reviewer pointed out, this was an extremely closed society, and non-California climbers were treated with disdain. Younger "wannabees" were pretty well ostracized, and women? Well, women climbers really didn't know how to climb! Living on next to no money, sleeping under a rock, hiding from the rangers, confronting bears, scarfing food in the cafeteria and coffee shop, stealing tips from the restaurant tables were all "normal" for many of these gifted lunatics. Many of them were my friends, and a good number of them haven't survived to present day and I miss them. Pratt, Fredericks, Sacherer, Roper, and numerous others; they were certainly unique individuals.This was a heart rending book for me--reminding me of days gone by and the experiences I had in Yosemite.
I was a Yosemite climber in the 1970's and met a number of the major characters (Frost, Chouinard, Robbins, Harding). Steve Roper has done an incredible job of capturing the ephemeral facts and essential spirit of the climbers and times. He is frank about their weaknesses: "We were thoughtless and immature"(pg 154) and "...we were puerile youths. We had been taught the correct values at home, yet we rebelled against everything," (pg 155-6), referring to the troubles they caused in the Vally. He is honest about his own failures, both in his own character and on climbs he could not do. He is enthusiastic about the successes of the pioneers and freely gives credit to those who deserve it. Steve not only gives you facts, he gives you feelings and insights. You can't get better history than this.The only criticism I have is that the book ends. I could have kept reading for many more days. If you want to FEEL what it was like, buy this book. I will bet you can't read it only once.
Steve Roper does a fine job chronicling the evolution of man and rock climbing in the golden era of climbing. His prose is easy to follow and enjoyable. Thank you for taking the time to put it all down.
If you are a fan of climbing and mountaineering literature this one is a must! You will find yourself constantly reminded of the legendary people and events of the 1960's and '70s and what it truly meant to climb the big ones at Yosemite.
Terrific history of Yosemite climbers filled with insight, anecdotes, facts, and beautifully detailed historic routes and climbs! A mandatory read for any climbing enthusiast!
Roper's "Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber" is a great read for anyone interested in the history of rockclimbing in the valley. As I went through the book I was thinking back to the days I invaded Yosemite's walls and staying in Camp 4 in the late 80's. I actually pulled out my old guide book and looked at the beta on some of the historic climbs that I never did climb. Roper's book started to make me think about taking a trip back to the valley to ascend some of those routes.
Fantastic Book. If you are a mountain history buff, a California climber, or just love a good read about something delightfully random, this is a must read.
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